SADAK by Sasa Kovacevic
Adding his own modern spin to the traditional sadak, a sleeveless jacket worn in some parts of Eastern Europe, Sasa Kovacevic has created an entire collection dedicated to his heritage, culture and history. The ethnographic fashion label Sadak is strongly linked to Kovacevic's Serbian roots. Now based in Berlin, Kovacevic wowed the fashion crowd during Berlin Fashion Week when he presented his SS 2011 collection.
The collection, titled 'I am a good socialist', featured cape-like jackets with slim fitted trousers, wrap-around waistcoats, sheer tailored blazers combined with slogan t-shirts and different interpretations of harem trousers. The plexiglass masks added a warrior finish to the looks, which was inspired by Sasa's own fictional 'micro-nation' based on socialist Yugoslavia in the 60's.Check out these sites: http://www.notjustalabel.com/sadak
http://www.lesmads.de/2010/07/berlin_start_your_fashion_business_im_wmf.html
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Iris van Herpen
For once, I am lost for words. Talk about SKILLS!!! To say that her collection is avant-garde would be an understatement. Iris van Herpen, a young Dutch designer -who has worked under Viktor & Rolf and McQueen- will blow your mind with her show-stopping pieces. Her 'ready-to-wear' collection does not look wearable at all, but who cares?!?!??! I want them ALL!!!!!!!!!!! Especially the 'Mummification' Collection from FW 2009/2010. You haven't seen complex pleating, twisting and wrapping of leather until you've fuckin' seen this....
Her latest collection titled 'Synesthesia', was inspired by " the cross -sensational phenomenon of feeling sound, smelling motion, and hearing color." Again, there was a lot of twisting of leather and cords. This time she also incorporated reflective metallics into her design, giving the pieces a 3-D feel. The shoes were done in collaboration with United Nude - the shape and style of the shoes were definitely a nod to McQueen. All in all, a feast for the senses.
See the rest of Synethesia here: http://www.irisvanherpen.com/irisvanherpen.html
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David Koma
Citing Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler and Geoffrey Beene as his influence, David who is Geogian-born, London-based and Central Saint- Martins trained was put on the map by a certain Beyonce Knowles when she wore one of his creations to the MTV Movie Awards in Berlin in 2009. Lady Gaga has also worn a few of his dresses.
His designs are oozing with sexuality. It is strong and sculptural with embellishments and attention grabbing cut-outs. David's graduate design won the Harrods Design Award, which was previously won by Christopher Kane. To view more of his designs go to: http://www.davidkoma.com/
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Jean-Pierre Braganza
I love JPB's Spring Summer 2010 collection. Entitled 'Psychadelactica', his use of neologism/portmanteau in naming his collections conjure alien vs. predator type sci-fi images in your head. His A/W 2010 collection is called Cylonatron while past ones were called Hadronexus and Totempyrean.
Jean- Pierre has injected this collection with vibrant and dizzying acid bright prints, a slight change from his usual black structured silhouettes. Jean-Pierre is famous for his origami fold-over technique and deconstructed 'boning' structural motif. Having worked for Robert Carey Williams and Roland Mouret previously, he counts Estelle, Rufus Wainwright, Alison Goldfrapp, Nine Inch Nails, and Kings of Leon as fans.
Jean- Pierre has injected this collection with vibrant and dizzying acid bright prints, a slight change from his usual black structured silhouettes. Jean-Pierre is famous for his origami fold-over technique and deconstructed 'boning' structural motif. Having worked for Robert Carey Williams and Roland Mouret previously, he counts Estelle, Rufus Wainwright, Alison Goldfrapp, Nine Inch Nails, and Kings of Leon as fans.
Check out Psychadelactica and his past collections here: http://www.jeanpierrebraganza.com/?page=0&collection=2
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Prabal Gurung
Known for his draping, sharp silhouettes and attention to detail, Prabal who made his debut at New York Fashion Week early this year, was born in Singapore, raised in Nepal and studied fashion in Delhi. Having interned and worked for numerous designers such as Manish Arora, Donna Karan and Cynthia Rowley, he became the design director for Bill Blass. After 5 years at the American fashion house, he left to set up his own label. The result is this: http://www.prabalgurung.com/home.php
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