Friday, April 30, 2010

Oh So Demode...

 
 


Karl Lagerfeld has, over the years, provided a lot of memorable quotes. Often criticised for his 'views',  I say take everything he says with a pinch of salt. After all, being serious is oh so boring and so demode...

On private jets: 
I very much like the people in Houston, but I will not change in the pee-pee room of the Atlanta airport. I have to have a private jet,” 

On the recent financial crisis:
This whole crisis is like a big spring housecleaning – both moral and physical. There is no creative evolution if you don’t have dramatic moments like this. Bling is over. Red carpets covered with rhinestones are out. I call it the 'New Modesty.'

On Yves Saint Laurent:
"He is very middle-of-the-road French-very pied-noir, very provincial"

On Heidi Klum:
"I don't know Heidi Klum. She was never known in France. Claudia Schiffer also doesn't know who she is."

On Andy Warhol:
"I shouldn't say this, but physically he was quite repulsive."

On body odour:
Yesterday [at the Chanel couture show] I had a problem. I said, ‘I’m sorry, you’ve got to tell this woman that she needs to be taken away. Her smell is not possible.’”

On iPods:
 "The iPod is genius. I have 300"

On living in the present:
“The worst thing is when friends say, ‘Remember the good old days?’ Forget about the good old days! That just makes your present second-hand. What is interesting is now. If you think it was better before, then you might as well commit suicide immediately.”

On individual style:
"Chic is a kind of mayonnaise, either it tastes, or it doesn't''
  
On interview etiquette:
"I had an interview once with some German journalist - some horrible, ugly woman. It was in the early days after the communists - maybe a week after - and she wore a yellow sweater that was kind of see-through. She had huge tits and a huge black bra, and she said to me, 'It's impolite; remove your glasses.' I said, 'Do I ask you to remove your bra?'."

On homosexuality:
"When I was a child I asked my mother what homosexuality was about and she said - and this was 100 years ago in Germany and she was very open-minded - 'It's like hair colour. It's nothing. Some people are blonde and some people have dark hair. It's not a subject.' This was a very healthy attitude."

On crime:
"Frustration is the mother of crime, and so there would be much more crime without prostitutes and without porn movies."
  
On phones:
"I send notes. I'm not a chambermaid whom you can ring at every moment. Today, you know, most people act like they work at a switchboard in a hotel."

On spending money:
"If you throw money out of the window throw it out with joy. Don’t say 'one shouldn’t do that' - that is bourgeois"

On fur:
 "The discussion of fur is childish" 


On weightloss:
“I lost 200lb to wear suits by Hedi Slimane”   

On short people:
"Life is not a beauty contest, some [ugly people] are great. What I hate is nasty, ugly people... the worst is ugly, short men. Women can be short, but for men it is impossible. It is something that they will not forgive in life... they are mean and they want to kill you."

On his lack of social life:
“I live in certain isolation. I never take appointments in the morning. I leave my house only after lunch. I don’t want to have a social life. I’ve had enough of that in my life. It’s demode. It’s another era. Perhaps people are still excited by that era, but not me. It’s uninteresting today. It says nothing. It’s boring, pretentious and vulgar.”

On flying:
“Also I cannot go on airlines because people stare at me, you have to be touched by people. I hate that…I hate bespoke because I hate to be touched by strangers. It bores me to death.”

On florals: 
"Florals are for middle-aged women with weight problems."

Thursday, April 29, 2010

Names To Watch Out For


SADAK by Sasa Kovacevic


Adding his own modern spin to the traditional sadak, a sleeveless jacket worn in some parts of Eastern Europe, Sasa Kovacevic has created an entire collection dedicated to his heritage, culture and history. The ethnographic fashion label Sadak is strongly linked to Kovacevic's Serbian roots. Now based in Berlin, Kovacevic wowed the fashion crowd during Berlin Fashion Week when he presented his SS 2011 collection.
The collection, titled 'I am a good socialist', featured cape-like jackets with slim fitted trousers, wrap-around waistcoats, sheer tailored blazers combined with slogan t-shirts and different interpretations of harem trousers. The plexiglass masks added a warrior finish to the looks, which was inspired by Sasa's own fictional 'micro-nation' based on socialist Yugoslavia in the 60's.
 







Check out these sites: http://www.notjustalabel.com/sadak
http://www.lesmads.de/2010/07/berlin_start_your_fashion_business_im_wmf.html

 

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Iris van Herpen


For once, I am lost for words. Talk about SKILLS!!! To say that her collection is avant-garde would be an understatement. Iris van Herpen, a young Dutch designer -who has worked under Viktor & Rolf and McQueen- will blow your mind with her show-stopping pieces. Her 'ready-to-wear' collection does not look wearable at all, but who cares?!?!??! I want them ALL!!!!!!!!!!! Especially the 'Mummification' Collection from FW 2009/2010. You haven't seen complex pleating, twisting and wrapping of leather until you've fuckin' seen this....




 To view the rest of 'Mummification' click here:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHqKNGyR6oY


Her latest collection titled 'Synesthesia', was inspired by " the cross -sensational phenomenon of feeling sound, smelling motion, and hearing color." Again, there was a lot of twisting of leather and cords. This time she also incorporated reflective metallics into her design, giving the pieces a 3-D feel.  The shoes were done in collaboration with United Nude - the shape and style of the shoes were definitely a nod to McQueen. All in all, a feast for the senses.



 


See the rest of Synethesia here: http://www.irisvanherpen.com/irisvanherpen.html


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 David Koma


Citing Pierre Cardin, Thierry Mugler and Geoffrey Beene as his influence, David who is Geogian-born, London-based and Central Saint- Martins trained was put on the map by a certain Beyonce Knowles when she wore one of his creations to the MTV Movie Awards in Berlin in 2009. Lady Gaga has also worn a few of his dresses.

His designs are oozing with sexuality. It is strong and sculptural with embellishments and attention grabbing cut-outs. David's graduate design won the Harrods Design Award, which was previously won by Christopher Kane. To view more of his designs go to: http://www.davidkoma.com/





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 Jean-Pierre Braganza


I love JPB's Spring Summer 2010 collection. Entitled 'Psychadelactica', his use of neologism/portmanteau in naming his collections conjure alien vs. predator type sci-fi images in your head. His A/W 2010 collection is called Cylonatron while past ones were called Hadronexus and Totempyrean.
Jean- Pierre has injected this collection with vibrant and dizzying acid bright prints, a slight change from his usual black structured silhouettes. Jean-Pierre is famous for his origami fold-over technique and deconstructed 'boning' structural motif.  Having worked for Robert Carey Williams and Roland Mouret previously, he counts Estelle, Rufus Wainwright, Alison Goldfrapp, Nine Inch Nails, and Kings of Leon as fans.



Check out Psychadelactica and his past collections here:  http://www.jeanpierrebraganza.com/?page=0&collection=2


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 Prabal Gurung


Known for his draping, sharp silhouettes and attention to detail, Prabal who made his debut at New York Fashion Week early this year, was born in Singapore, raised in Nepal and studied fashion in Delhi. Having interned and worked for numerous designers such as Manish Arora, Donna Karan and Cynthia Rowley, he became the design director for Bill Blass. After 5 years at the American fashion house, he left to set up his own label. The result is this: http://www.prabalgurung.com/home.php




Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Classified Information

(Written on the 27th April 2010)

I was sitting on my hands all morning, waiting to be hit by a jolt of inspiration and motivation. A couple of hours passed by and still I couldn't get my brain to jumpstart so an emergency phone call to RD was placed. After much fanfare, we both agreed to have lunch at The Classified in Sheung Wan. It is normally a fun spot for people-watching but this afternoon was different, we were watching tractors dig holes on the ground in front of us instead. If it weren't for it's good reputation, we would've gone somewhere else. After demolishing a substantial amount of food and wine, RD decided that he was going to take me vintage shopping. This, of course, was music to my ears! It took a bus, a taxi ride and a trek up a small hill to get to this unassuming little shop. From the outside it looked ordinary but by jove! inside was extraordinary! There were racks of vintage designer gear as far as my eyes could see. It was like being in a candy shop!
Not knowing where to look or start, RD instructed me to brrrrrrreathe and motioned for me to follow him to the nearest rack of clothes. There were all sorts of Dior, Valentino and Mugler. Gianni Versace, Gucci, Vuitton and Courrèges. Celine, McQueen, Burberry and Paul Smith. Underneath the racks were shoes circa mid 90's by Dries van Noten, Blahnik, LV and Jil Sander. I nearly had a Cinderella moment with a pair of 3-inch strappy leather Balenciagas I found under a cream body-con Thierry Mugler dress. Deliberately ignoring the shoe size (36) while pleading for a miracle from the shoe gods, I forced ma pieds (37) into the shoes. I was even prepared to shave the sides and the back of my feet but the Balenciagas proved to be too small for me. Cinderella, I was not. I felt more like Grizella, the ugly step sister who couldn't fit her massive feet into the tiny glass slippers.
Just when I was about to faint from sensory overload, I was dragged to the back of the room. I asked RD where he was taking me, to which he replied 'oh but to the second floor, darling....'
I grabbed hold of an Aquascutum cape to steady my footing, '....there's another floor?!?!?!?' 
What greeted me was a row of Chanel tweed jackets in baby pink, red, cream and yellow. Mon dieu, THIS is fashion heaven. Along one side of the wall were shelves lined with old Dior, Bruno Magli, Gucci, Prada and Miu Miu shoes. To the back of the room were vintage fur coats and leather jackets. There were more clothes on the opposite side of the room- Prada, Missoni, Jil Sander, Vanessa Bruno and Celine.
RD picked up a beautiful vintage Hermes red equestrian jacket and tried it on. It suited him perfectly only the jacket had bust points, and he, well..... is lacking in the bust department. Obviously.
I tried on numerous Chanel jackets and they too, fitted me perfectly. The one I particularly liked had a price tag of HK$7000. It was a cropped tweed jacket that sat just slightly below my waist.....I seriously need to think about starting a career as a WAG. Ha! 

NOT.

With a heavy heart, we put the Chanel and the Hermes back on the rack and headed back downstairs. Not quite ready to leave the shop, we decided to do some last minute rummaging through the shelves and drawers. I found a vintage fringed suede bag in beige, while RD found a retro vintage 80's scarf in poptastic colours of yellow, blue and red. We left the shop a couple of hundred dollars poorer, but extremely happy with our purchases. 
I will definitely come back to this goldmine of a shop, though I'd have to get RD to draw me a map as I don't think I'd be able to locate it on my own. And once this map is drawn, it will be kept under lock and key. 


 I tried to convince RD that he needed this Celine trench 
(circa mid- 90's) for his up and coming expedition to the Himalayas. Yes, oh yes.

Thursday, April 22, 2010

APRIL WISH LIST

Alexander Wang for Linda Farrow Sunglasses


Christian Louboutin Engin Spikes 120


Peter Pilotto Torsion Printed Silk Dress


Maison Martin Margiella Tuxedo Jacket

  
Phillip Lim Pleated Silk Chiffon Dress


 Lanvin Embroidered Techno Voile Wrap Dress


Thakoon Suede Sandals


 Lanvin Crystal Double Bird Bangle


Tom Binns Crystal Necklace


Mawi Heirloom Silver Plated Necklace


Alexander McQueen Skull Leather Clutch




Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Architectural Heels

A selection of some of the best architectural heels this year. Most of them are wearable apart from Guo Pei's mad-looking, vertigo inducing geta and Alexander McQueen's Armadillo shoes, which caused some models to walk out of the late designer's Spring Summer 2010 show.

 Balenciaga


Jil Sander


Azzedine Alaïa 

Marni

 

YSL

Alexander Wang


Louise Goldin


Pierre Hardy


 Nicholas Kirkwood


Guo Pei


 Alexander McQueen